Common Skin Questions and Answers
Q - What causes melasma? A - The exact cause is unknown, however research links the causes to liver or yeast related issues. Such as, when hormone levels rise in pregnant woman, those who are on hormone replacement therapy, and those who take birth-control pills. It is known fact that elevated estrogen and progesterone can lead to overgrowth of candida and other fungi. Based on the fungal looking pattern melasma has on the skin, the likelihood that increased hormones fuel yeast growth in the body, and the fact that the skin often maintains melasma even after the hormone imbalance has been removed, it is reasonable to assume there is a correlation. A few ways to help combat melasma; anti-fungals and liver cleanses for those who have suffered damage from hormonal supplementation. (Always consult your physician.) __________________________________________________ Q - What is beneficial about putting caviar on the skin? A - Nothing, really. There may be some minerals that can be utilized but, for the most part, there is a mild plumping effect and not much else. ___________________________________________________ Q - Why is my skin dry? A - Americans are about 20 percent dehydrated normally, so it will help to address that problem first. Secondly, the skin cannot hold onto water well if you over-cleanse your face or use exfoliants or exfoliating devices. Essentially, anything that removes parts of your protective barrier is going to allow the loss of hydration to occur. ____________________________________________________ Q - Can anything that makes wrinkles disappear in five minutes be good? A - Not really. Perhaps there is a temporary plumping which may be nice for an evening out. Egg proteins are an example of a topical that tightens the skin but does not trigger inflammation. Most other plumpers work primarily by creating an inflammatory event in your skin that makes the lines appear diminished. This can be done with a variety of ingredients: glycolic acid and L-ascorbic (vitamin C) are two commonly used options. If it works that fast it is not rejuvenating the skin. If you use plumpers don't spend too much money because they are not worth the money. by Dr. Ben Johnson
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It is often noticed that after menopause women begin to age faster. Wrinkles increase rapidly, akin quickly loses elasticity and smoothness. This seems to be a result from diminished levels of estrogen. Among the hormones whose levels decline with age, estrogens have the most dramatic effect in the skin. Estrogens are known to protect women from heart disease, and now it seems that they also slow down skin aging. Several studies indicate that postmenopausal woman on estrogen replacement therapy develop less wrinkles, better skin texture History Repeats Itself
Once upon a time, pale skin was a sign of affluence, and maintaining milky skin was an important part of a beauty regimen. From the 1920s onward, this trend changed thanks to French designer Coco Chanel, who popularized tanning as a symbol of health, well-being, and an upscale social status. It also did not help that World War II veterans were returning home from combat in warmer climates sporting golden tans and a vigorous appearance. From that moment on, the golden tan gained popularity and became aesthetically pleasing, despite its detrimental effects on the skin. As such, many individuals suffered from sunburns, pigmentation disorders, and even skin cancer. Additionally, an increasing number of consumers erroneously believed they could achieve a tanned look without the side effects of sun exposure by using tanning beds. The result was overexposure to the sun and a population battling hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone, as well as various skin cancers. History repeats itself as flawless, porcelain-looking skin is now extremely in demand. The Quest for Healthy Skin Today, the quest for prolonged skin health and radiance has become a more standard mindset, with consumers displaying an unending desire to reveal a flawless skin tone. More popular than ever are anti-aging products with the capacity to counteract both photo-aging and chrono-aging, as well as to effectively treat hyperpigmentation in order to deliver a more even skin texture with a brighter and lighter skin tone. Even though skin color depends on a combination of genetically determined elements, the cells directly in charge of skin pigmentation are located at the bottom of the epidermis. These cells, called melanocytes, are primarily responsible for skin protection against damage from solar UV rays. Another primary function is the formation of pigment that is so intricately connected to a person's race through hereditary factors, thereby defining skin color. Lastly, melanocytes are less commonly known for their "dark" side of causing melanoma cancer. Pigmentation occurs simply because of multiple cascading chemical reactions that occur within melanocytes, involving an enzyme (biological agent) called tyrosinase that causes the oxidation of an amino acid called tyrosine. The result is the formation of pigment called melanin. Depending on the genetically predetermined pathway followed, reddish or brown melanin can be produced. The biological regulation of pigmentation depends on many factors, such as age, hormones, sun exposure, photo-sensitizing ingredients, skin inflammation, skin trauma and more. The presence of these factors, either singly or combined, can make the treatment and management of discolorations complicated. Regrettably, skin therapists often focus on a single hyperpigmentation cause and do not address the multiple factors responsible. This often leads to a resurgence of hyperpigmentation or to an unsatisfied client due to the lack of visible and long-term results. In the U.S., where the overall population includes a strong Asian demographic, brightening services are constantly in high demand. It is well known that Asians are one of the primary consumers of brightening products and that their culture's quest for a lighter, brighter complexion can be historically tracked to ancient beliefs and traditions. For most cultures throughout the centuries, lighter skin has symbolized an elitist social status that helped differentiate the rich from the poor. Those who were not privy to a lighter complexion sought to obtain one by applying dyes and fine powders. This practice came at the cost of degraded skin health and the development of visible discolorations, since many products used were lead-derived or contained other poisonous substances that lead to illness and even death. Treating Body Hyperpigmentation Exposed body skin will be the primary target of damage both from aging and pigmentation. Besides the face, the areas mostly affected by UV rays are the back of neck, back, arms, décolleté, legs and feet. These areas need to be examined closely for growths, dilated capillaries, accumulations of pigment, lines and wrinkles, and anything suspicious not commonly found on healthy skin. If in doubt, a courtesy referral (recommendation) to visit a physician is the right thing to do. In any case, the best way to deal with hyperpigmentation is to establish a clear plan of action. When dealing with mature guests, always consider a hormonal imbalance as a likely cause, in which case you should suggest a visit to an endocrinologist. Once the hormonal issues are addressed, the skin therapist can focus on a series of professional lightening treatments. In most cases, gentle body exfoliation can accomplish an important improvement in skin brightening and texture smoothing; aside from this and to assure effectiveness, high performing ingredients with advanced delivery systems are a must. For years, hydroquinone occupied the highest respectable seat among skin brighteners for medical and non-medical use. However, extensive research of skin problems due to hydroquinone side effects led to its global demise and opened up new doors for safer, more revolutionary ingredients. As a result, naturally derived arbutin, lactic acid, and mulberry extract were considered suitable alternatives for lightening agents, especially when used in combination with other pigment-reducing ingredients. Lately, this has changed with the arrival of newer ingredients and technologies. The Latest Buzz in Brightening The latest in-demand brightening ingredients, which are clinically proven to deliver highly effective, brightening benefits, are diacetyl boldine andoligopeptide-68. Diacetyl boldine is an extract from the bark of the Chilean boldo tree. This powerful ingredient works at the tyrosinase-level to reduce and control pigmentation and is clinically proven effective at improving the skin after only 10 minutes of application, increasing complexion evenness and luminosity by 10 percent. Cumulative results with diacetyl boldine were also impressive within a consumer trial, which documented that 80 percent of participants reported a 33 percent lightening effect on their skin tone during a 56-day trial. As a highlight, diacetyl boldine is encapsulated into microliposomes to make it even more effective at reaching its target in the skin, more resistant to degradation, and more consistent in its results. Due to its biomimetic liposomic time-release peptide delivery system, identical to the skin's own structure and composition, oligopeptide-68 is capable of rapidly equalizing skin tone and reducing unwanted hyperpigmentation. Combined with diacetyl boldine, oligopeptide-68 can elicit powerful results to satisfy the most demanding of guests with immediate, visible results. Recently, another addition to the very effective options to target not only hyperpigmentation, but also skin aging reveal a new form of vitamin C known as Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate. This type of stable vitamin C is particularly efficient for fast penetration into skin layers given its high liposolubility, making it an undisputable compatible contender for body skin applications to deliver lightening, anti-free-radicals, and collagen stimulating benefits. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is therefore an ideal ingredient to consider in body skin lightening and brightening formulations. Healthy, Brighter Body Skin Brightening the skin can only get better if the skin is treated comprehensively. Proper exfoliation, hydration, reparation and protection are fundamental pillars in skin care for both face and body. Ideal body products that seek to brighten the skin should also focus on maintaining skin wellness through homeostasis; the skin can show remarkable improvement when its delicate balance is kept in equilibrium. To accomplish these goals, hydrating and nourishing ingredients are a must, but as the skin ages it may require of supplementary actives that can bring forth a youthful appearance more expeditiously. Such actives include, but are not limited to, Sorghum (a natural cereal extract capable of interacting with epidermal keratinocytes to create a tightening film on the skin for increased firmness) and Kombucha (an extract from fermented black tea culture which possesses enzymatic and microcirculatory benefits). These ingredients improve the wellness of the skin and not only support the brightening action of lightening ingredients, but also enhance the skin's healthier feel and look. In addition, to widen the range of benefits, these ingredients should also be considered in high performing formulations: compatible peptides of collagen and elastin; polyphenols (antioxidants), hyaluronic acid, vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin E, and last but not least, plant oils for extra nourishing action. Dr. Christian Jurist is a physician that specializes in aesthetic medicine. He received his medical diploma from Venezuela's "UCV," in 1995; and his post-graduate diploma from the International Union of Esthetic Medicine (U.I.M.E.) headquartered in Paris, France in 1998. Jurist has belonged to several International aesthetic medicine professional associations and his long-term experience has comprised multiple face and body therapies, years of teaching experience, published author of professional articles, numerous educational seminars, professional trade show conferences, school classes, and special events throughout the U.S. and worldwide. Since joining Pevonia and Medicalia International as medical director of global education, Jurist has been working side-by-side with renowned biochemist and founder of Pevonia Botanica, Mme. Sylvie Hennessy, to direct and develop new and effective superior educational programs to provide skin professionals with an easy-yet-scientific approach to clinical skin care, and the medical aesthetics practice. Either one is great in most cases, unless you are looking for real results. The growth of organic skincare wil wane over the next decade as people realize the organic and corrective cannot coexist with the current labeling laws in place. This has more to do with the current regulations for the labeling than the idea of using ingredients from organic plants. If we could get our vitamin C from an organic orange or an antioxidant straight from organic fruit extraction, that would be great.
Unfortuantely, organic products are so limited in what actives they can contain, that they rarely make significant changes in the skin. Natural products have a similar problem. We cannot harvest our ingredients from fruits and vegetables in most cases due to the prohibitive costs. That would be the true definition of natural. Instead, 99.99 percent of the companies use "bioidentical" active ingredients, which are about 90 as good as the real thing. There are cases where we would define "natural" much more strictly than it is being claimed. A natual product should not have inflammatory or toxic preservatives like parabens or phenoxy-ethanol. It should not contain dyes, articial fragrance, or fillers. For years Dr. Ben Johnson has been advocating that melasma is caused by a fungus. The problem has been finding something that specifically kills that fungus. Osmosis is excited to announce the launch of Osmosis Restore™, a truly remarkable internal supplement and topical serum that not only removes the fungus from the body but also heals the liver damage that is caused. Restore™ is a highly specialized formulation that boosts your body's immune function and repair process internally and topically by treating:
* Aging body and skin (all ages) * Melasma, Hyperpigmentation, Liver and Age Spots * Weak or Suppressed Immune System The results happen in the first three months of use. There are no side effects, but numerous benefits both topically and internally. Hyperpigmentation plagues everyone over 40 and there is not a permanent answer for it. People have burned their skin with lasers and peels and used topical irritants and toxins in an effort to try and get a temporary response. Our solution is both permanent and cost effective. Research shows that likely causes of aging are the accumulation of free radicals and protein damage found in the body. Protein oxidation occurs daily in our cells and is also the result of free radicals; with the buildup of this damage, premature aging occurs. No longer is treating free-radicals enough to prevent aging. Restore™ enhances the body's ability to repair broken (toxic) proteins considerably, thereby reducing the progression of aging, disease, and inflammation. Immune rejuvenation is possible so give your immune system the upgrade it needs to combat an aging body and skin. It will forever change your skin! That Cost You Money and Waste Your Time
Are proven ingredients guarenteed to work? Many of us ascribe to the idea that as long as they use treatments backed by plentiful scientific research that results are virtually guarenteed. However such optimism is unfounded... Due to variations in individual skin chemistry, only a percentage of people respomd to even proven treatments. More importantly, an ingredient may only be effective if delivered deep enough into the dermis in sufficient amounts. This last statement depends on whether the product is formulated correctly to accomplsih the these two objectives. So knowing that a product has proven ingredients is only the first step, the second step is selecting a product with proper formulation. Collagen Creams Let me provide an analogy...Imagine you live in a brick house and a neighbor is throwing bricks at it. Will your walls become thicker or stronger...? Of course not! The bricks will only scattered on the ground. The same happens when you apply a collagen cream. Collagen is a large molecule therefore cannot penetrate the skin. Collagen will simply remain on the skin until it is washed off... Even if the collagen molecule was reduced so that it could penetrate the skin, it could not ingregrate with the skin's collagen matrix. However, collagen creams are not completely usless, they can hold in moisture and thus make a decent moisturizer. Topicals Vitamins There are many vitamin rich creams and serums available on the market which can be frusterating and overwhleming when trying to decide what to buy. It's important to make one thing clear regarding vitamins they are NOT created equal, especially as far as topical application is concerned. While all vitamins are essential for our survivial as a part fo food intake, only a few have been shown to reduce or retard the signs of aging when applied to the skin . Such vitamins include, vitamin C, vitamins and possibly vitamin E and niacinamide (a form of B3). Also of mention are coenzyme Q10 and lipoic acid, which are vitamin-like condintionally-essentially nutrients showing promise in anti-aging skin care. Important to note, is that even these vitamins must be formulated and applied correclty to deliver results. Aloe Vera Aloe vera plant can soothe inflamed skin. However, it has no effect on wrinkles. Furthermore, active ingredients in aloe vera are relatively unstable and quickly degrade unless specially stabilized. Many creams with alooe do not include proper stabilizers and are useless even against irritation. Scientifically Sounding Ingredients Scientifcally sounding ingredients do not mean that a cream is effective or innovative. Quick Results, Instant Face Lifts Facial rejuvenation is about improving your skin rather than temporarily temporarily tightening it or covering it up. Those few skin rejuvenation ingredients that are effective, work gradually. Dr. G. Todorov
Although moisturizing alone cannot significantly reduce the sign of aging, it is still a important component of any skin care regime...especially if you live in a dry climate or exercise regularly. Lack of water can interfere with proper cell metabolism and tissue repair. Dry skin has a diminished capacity to heal and renew itself and is more susceptible to skin infections and irritants. Well moisturized skin will help slow down aging and increase the effectiveness of other treatments. Moisturizing "DO NOT" list
Facial Aging
One cause of the appearance of visible skin aging is a degradation of the skin’s extracellular matrix (ECM). The ECM is a complex framework that supports and protects the cells of the dermis. A strong ECM must be present to shore up the skin’s outer appearance and health. The ECM is made up of structural proteins (collagen and elastin), adhesive proteins (laminins and fibronectin), glycosaminoglycans (GAG), and proteoglycans. A network of collagen fibers gives strength and structure to the skin, while elastin fibers give the skin the ability to stretch and return to its original shape. The GAG that surround this structure are: Hyaluronic acid, heparin sulfate, chondroitin sulfate, heparin, and dermatan sulfate. Hyaluronic acid, the most extensively studied GAG, can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water within the matrix, making skin healthy, plump, and youthful-looking. Matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) enzymes are a main player in the breakdown of the ECM. MMP, such as collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase are responsible for the destruction of spent ECM components. Although a small amount of these enzymes are necessary for healthy skin, an over-production occurs in response to external damaging factors, predominantly UV exposure. Wrinkling, laxity, enlargement of pores, and loss of elasticity are exaggerated due to this ECM breakdown. More active melanogenesis and visible vascularity are also common as a direct result of UV exposure. The Dark Side of the Sun Unprotected sun exposure has been directly linked to collagen degradation, skin laxity, hyperpigmentation, and most importantly… skin cancer. UV radiation is particularly damaging to the skin because it has been shown to not only increase levels of reactive oxygen species (ROS), a particularly destructive free radical, but it also depletes the skin’s own natural antioxidant defense system. This makes the skin vulnerable in many ways as a result of sun exposure. It only takes one-tenth the amount of UV exposure to activate MMP enzymes as it takes to cause sunburn. This means that way before you think you have had any damage from the sun, you are already breaking down the critical support structure of the skin. Through time, pollution, and ultraviolet exposure, these MMP enzymes are slowly degrading the ECM. The inflammation from UV exposure is also responsible for stimulating the melanogenesis process that leads to hyperpigmentation. This process causes melanin-containing melanosomes to be deposited in parasol-like configurations over the nucleus of each affected keratinocyte to protect its DNA from potential mutation. This mutation is what leads to skin cancer, which accounts for 50 percent of all cancers in the U.S. An Ounce of Protection To avoid the negative effects of sun exposure, it is critical to use broad-spectrum sun protection products on a daily basis, not just when participating in outdoor sports or activities. UVB rays do diminish slightly in the winter months, but UVA rays are constant throughout the year and penetrate through windows and clothing. This fact illustrates why year-round daily use of sun protection is the ultimate in age defense. Using enough sunscreen is also important. Research states that an individual should use approximately one ounce of sunscreen to cover their entire body. Antioxidant Defense System To sufficiently protect skin from the damaging free radicals triggered by UV exposure, topical antioxidants should be added to every patient’s regimen, in addition to daily use of broad-spectrum sunscreen. Some useful UV protective antioxidants to include are: Green Tea – Epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) is a powerful polyphenol found in green tea that is responsible for much of its excellent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and cancer-prevention benefits. Research has shown that EGCG is able to reverse the immunosuppressive effects of UV rays, quench hydrogen peroxide radicals, and cause the destruction of skin cells that could potentially develop into tumors. EGCG has also been shown to inhibit lipid peroxidation and prevent the formation of nitric oxide, hydroxyl radicals, and singlet oxygen. Resveratrol – Research has demonstrated that application of resveratrol prior to UVB exposure suppresses the production of hydrogen peroxide radicals and lipid peroxidation. Resveratrol also inhibits the activation of nuclear factor kappa B (NF-kB), a protein complex that contributes to the formation of malignancies. Genistein – This polyphenol is derived from soybeans and effectively increases the activity of the skin’s natural antioxidant system. Genistein’s ability to prevent lipid peroxidation and free radical production and its inhibition of cell mutation and DNA damage makes it an important part of any anti-aging regimen. Additionally, studies highlight genistein’s ability to prevent both the short- and long-term effects of UV exposure, including erythema, skin cancer, and visible photoaging. Ergothioneine – This antioxidant is relatively new to the skin care industry, but its antioxidant benefits and its ability to increase the protective action of traditional antioxidants such as L-ascorbic acid, make it an excellent addition to skin care products. Studies have shown that ergothioneine reduces several forms of free radicals, including hydrogen peroxide, hydroxyl radicals, singlet oxygen, peroxynitrite, lipid peroxides, and nitric oxides. Caffeine – This ingredient is capable of reducing UV-induced free radicals, including hydroxyl radicals, hydrogen peroxide, peroxyl radicals, and singlet oxygen. Research also indicates that topical application of caffeine can reduce UV-induced skin cancers by forcing damaged skin cells into apoptosis (cell suicide). Silybin – Milk thistle-derived silybin is a powerful flavonoid antioxidant. Silybin inhibits lipid peroxidation and nitric oxide and hydrogen peroxide free radical production. It can also inhibit the immunosuppression and skin cancer caused by UV exposure, and decrease the cellular degradation caused by UV exposure. Suffocating the Skin In a study compiled by the Campaign for Tobacco-Free Kids in the fourth quarter of 2010, 46.6 million U.S. adults and 3.4 million high school students regularly smoke cigarettes. Even with much stronger policies on educating children about the dangers of smoking, 1,000 kids become regular smokers every day. The dangerous heart and lung diseases that are directly linked to smoking are widely known, but we do not have as strong of a dialogue about what smoking does to healthy skin. Smoking is a major contributor to many skin conditions and complications, such as skin discoloration, ECM breakdown, deep wrinkling, premature skin aging, poor wound healing, and the formation of abnormal skin growths. The nicotine in cigarette smoke causes vasoconstriction (blood vessel contraction). Additionally, the carbon monoxide present in cigarettes bonds with oxygen in the blood, greatly reducing the amount available to the body. This deadly combination of nicotine and carbon monoxide creates a situation where there are not only constricted capillaries trying to carry the oxygen, but also less oxygen flow through them. Smoking just one cigarette restricts blood flow for up to 90 minutes. This means there is a greatly reduced amount of oxygen passing through the skin. If a person smokes more than one cigarette in an hour and a half, then the time the skin goes without proper oxygenation is multiplied exponentially. Amazingly, once this restricted oxygen flow has persisted in the skin over time, the body attempts to get more blood to the skin by producing more blood vessels. Eventually, this leads to the telangiectasias that are characteristic of a condition known as “smoker’s skin.” Exposure to the pollutants present in cigarettes accelerates the degradation of the ECM by increasing MMP (specifically MMP-1) activity, causing the unwanted breakdown of healthy and necessary matrix components. Smoking is an avoidable environmental pollutant that compromises health and ages the skin prematurely. Breathing Life Back into the Skin Once someone has quit smoking there are treatments and topical ingredients that will help improve the skin. Professional detoxifying and oxygenating procedures promote circulation and oxygenation of the skin cells, which can dramatically improve skin tone. Ingredients like L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C), retinoids (vitamin A), and certain peptides increase collagen deposition to strengthen the skin and minimize the wrinkling so common in smokers. Caper bud extract and some types of algae work to support and strengthen the capillaries and reduce their hyperpermeability (leakiness). Matrix metalloproteinase-inhibiting ingredients (MMPi) like resveratrol, soy proteins, epigallocatachin gallate (EGCG), sodium chondroitin sulfate, and L-ascorbic acid work to protect the ECM from the damaging effects of excess MMP activity. Superficial chemical peel treatments improve the overall health and appearance of the skin, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, and greatly improve skin surface texture. There are many additional options available; however, nothing can replace the necessary oxygen for continued skin cell health better than simply quitting smoking. Healthy Skin for All Although every individual is a product of their heredity, and some types of facial aging are inevitable, the vast majority are preventable, avoidable, and correctable. Well-educated patients are more likely to be compliant with your directions for daily broad-spectrum sun protection use, antioxidant supplementation, and the avoidance of negative lifestyle choices like smoking. This then gives you the opportunity to help all your patients achieve all their healthy skin goals. Cheryl Staurowsky, LE, PCA skin® advanced educator, since 2003. Staurowsky lives in Ft. Lauderdale, Fla. and began her career in medical aesthetics in 1994. While working with a variety of skin conditions and medical devices at multiple renowned physicians’ offices, she became skilled at customizing professional treatments and daily care regimens. Staurowsky has a passion for knowledge and educates her patients on the benefits of skin care and how a formulation actually works within the skin. As a skin care professional, you have no doubt heard these terms countless times. But what do they mean? At face value, “functional,” “performance,” and “active” sound like different ways of saying, essentially, the same thing. But in reality, these categories could not be more different.
“Active” and “Performance” Ingredients Any skin care product that intends to stimulate or enhance normal mechanisms of cellular repair includes “active” or “performance” ingredients. What is the difference? If the product is a drug or a cosmeceutical, a skin care product that features drug-like qualities, the ingredients that work to improve the skin are referred to as “active” ingredients. In the case of a skin care product that may be purchased over-the-counter, they are called “performance” ingredients. Examples of active or performance ingredients include hydroxy acids used in anti-aging and exfoliation products, tretinoin or benzoyl peroxide found in acne treatments, polysaccharides in moisturizers, hyaluronic acid for skin lightening, and antioxidants found in a wide variety of skin care products. There are hundreds of active/performance ingredients available to skin care formulators. Of course, active or performance ingredients are not necessary in all skin care products. Take, for example, facial cleansers. While a good number of cleansers include performance ingredients like salicylic acid or antioxidants, many of them are simply designed to cleanse dirt and excess oil from the skin. In the latter example, performance ingredients are not necessary. “Functional” Ingredients Just as the name implies, functional ingredients are those that play a role in the way a product functions. These inactive ingredients may determine the form of a product, whether a cream, serum, gel, or the like; give a product its texture and consistency; and aid the performance of active ingredients. The collection of functional ingredients in a skin care formulation is often referred to as the “vehicle” for the delivery of active or performance ingredients. Simply put, you can add the very best active or performance ingredients to a formulation, but they are worthless unless the vehicle is optimized to allow them to blend onto, or penetrate into the skin. In the functional ingredients category, there are several sub- categories, including:
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) serve as another good example of an ingredient that fits into both active/performance and functional categories. Not only are AHAs used in exfoliants and anti-aging products to reduce the signs of aging while improving skin texture, they also function as humectants. Then there are biological additives and botanicals. These substances, derived from plants and animals, are typically added to improve the aesthetics of a product, including its look, texture, and smell. However, emerging research is showing the ability of some biological additives and botanicals to positively affect skin physiology. Examples include green tea extract, grapefruit oil, and royal jelly. Challenges Affecting Formulators You will recall that I originally referred to skin care product formulation as a “delicate balance of ingredients,” a description that is certainly appropriate given the challenges formulators encounter when creating a product. To ensure the formulation’s stability, each ingredient must be added at the appropriate time, and in the appropriate quantity. Beyond these factors, quality comes into play to ensure maximum results. Ingredient Concentration Consumers often encounter advertising that hypes the quantity of an active/performance ingredient in a formulation. In reality, however, adding too much of a good thing could cause the product to be irritating to the skin of most individuals or result in negative side effects. Conversely, products that contain insignificant quantities of an active/performance ingredient can still list that ingredient on the label. However, the product end user will, most likely, see no benefit from it. In the case of ingredients that play the role of both active/performance and functional ingredients, such as alpha hydroxy acids, the amount of the substance added to the formulation determines the impact it will have on the skin. For example, if you add a significant amount of an AHA, the result will be exfoliation. Add small quantities and it will act more like a moisturizer. Ingredient Quality Simply having an ingredient in a product says nothing about the quality of that ingredient. Note that product ingredients fall into one of five quality grades. In descending order of purity, they are: Pharmaceutical, food, cosmetic, reagent, and technical. Most over-the-counter cosmetics utilize cosmetic-grade ingredients, which, while still of reasonably high quality, contain allowable impurities. Pharmaceutical-grade ingredients, however, which are used in drugs and many cosmeceuticals, have the highest level of purity (99.9 percent pure) and contain higher levels of the components that encourage cellular repair. Stability Most active/performance ingredients are inherently unstable over time. This is why most skin care products offer an expiration date on the packaging. However, this instability may be further exacerbated by conditions such as exposure to light and improper temperatures. Therefore, most manufacturers take care to package products in containers that protect the formulation as much as possible. Some manufacturers will even go as far as directing distributors on the appropriate storage conditions of their products. Formulations may also be compromised by chemical reactions among ingredients, which is why the order in which ingredients are added is essential. And, because some ingredients simply break down in the presence of other substances, they may be placed into a formulation via encapsulation. An example of this is antioxidants like ascorbic acid, which may often be included within tiny beads made from a plant protein, which melts when applied to the skin. Recommending Skin Care Products toYour Clientele So then, the obvious question is - how do you help your clients determine if a skin care formulation is optimized to best meet their needs? The most useful tool in this effort is the ingredient list found on the product itself. While the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) does not approve over-the-counter skin care products directly, they do provide some protection for consumers via the Fair Packaging and Labeling Act. This law requires manufacturers to follow specific criteria when developing product labels, including listing product ingredients in the order of concentration. Additionally, all ingredients must be listed by their INCI name, that is, the scientific term for each ingredient. For example, INCI takes a simple ingredient like shea butter and requires it be listed as Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter). While this may seemingly make labels more difficult to read, it actually ensures that labels read consistently across languages and cultures. While the label will not help you determine the exact quantity of the active/performance ingredients present in the formulation, you can make a determination based on its rank in the ingredient list. The label will also allow you to determine if a therapeutic base is present, one that will allow active/performance ingredients to be absorbed into the skin. Most manufacturers that utilize pharmaceutical-grade ingredients will highlight this fact on the label. And finally, look for an expiration date and any storage instructions. Despite active/performance ingredients getting all the glory, the role of functional ingredients should not be overlooked when evaluating a skin care product. After all, a truly efficacious product requires a formulation that maximizes both. From EWG Skin Deep
Myth – If it’s for sale at a supermarket, drugstore, or department store cosmetics counter, it must be safe. Fact – The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has no authority to require companies to test products for safety. FDA does not review or approve the vast majority of products or ingredients before they go on the market. The agency conducts pre-market reviews only for certain color additives and active ingredients in cosmetics classified as over-the-counter drugs (FDA 2005, 2010). Myth – The cosmetics industry effectively polices itself, making sure all ingredients meet a strict standard of safety. Fact – In its more than 30-year history, the industry’s safety panel (the Cosmetic Ingredient Review, or CIR) has assessed fewer than 20 percent of cosmetics ingredients and found only 11 ingredients or chemical groups to be unsafe (FDA 2007, CIR 2009, Houlihan 2008). Its recommendations are not binding on companies (Houlihan 2008). Myth – The government prohibits dangerous chemicals in personal care products, and companies wouldn’t risk using them. Fact – Cosmetics companies may use any ingredient or raw material, except for color additives and a few prohibited substances, without government review or approval (FDA 2005, FDA 2000).
Fact – People are exposed by breathing in sprays and powders, swallowing chemicals on the lips or hands or absorbing them through the skin. Studies find evidence of health risks. Biomonitoring studies have found cosmetics ingredients – like phthalate plasticizers, paraben preservatives, the pesticide triclosan, synthetic musks, and sunscreens – as common pollutants in men, women and children. Many of these chemicals are potential hormone disruptors (Gray et al. 1986, Schreurs et al. 2004, Gomez et al. 2005, Veldhoen et al. 2006). Products commonly contain penetration enhancers to drive ingredients deeper into the skin. Studies find health problems in people exposed to common fragrance and sunscreen ingredients, including elevated risk for sperm damage, feminization of the male reproductive system, and low birth weight in girls (Duty et al. 2003, Hauser et al. 2007, Swan et al. 2005, Wolff et al. 2008). Myth – Products made for children or bearing claims like “hypoallergenic” are safer choices. Fact – Most cosmetic marketing claims are unregulated, and companies are rarely if ever required to back them up, even for children’s products. A company can use a claim like “hypoallergenic” or “natural” “to mean anything or nothing at all,” and while “[m]ost of the terms have considerable market value in promoting cosmetic products to consumers,… dermatologists say they have very little medical meaning” (FDA 1998). An investigation of more than 1,700 children’s body care products found that 81 percent of those marked “gentle” or “hypoallergenic” contained allergens or skin and eye irritants (EWG 2007a). Myth – Natural and organic products are always safer. Fact – Products labeled natural or organic often contain synthetic chemicals, and even truly natural or organic ingredients are not necessarily risk-free. The global, plant-based pharmaceutical market, valued at $19.5 billion in 2008, relies on the ability of “natural” chemicals – like those used in some natural cosmetics – to significantly alter body functions, a far cry from innocuous (BCC Research 2006, 2009). On the other hand, products labeled “organic” or “natural” can contain petrochemicals and no certified organic or natural ingredients whatsoever. Products certified as organic can contain as little as 10% organic ingredients by weight or volume (Certech 2008). FDA tried establishing an official definition for the term “natural,” but these protections were overturned in court (FDA 1998). Research shows that 35 percent of children’s products marketed as “natural” contain artificial preservatives (EWG 2007a). Myth – FDA would promptly recall any product that injures people. Fact – FDA has no authority to require recalls of harmful cosmetics. Furthermore, manufacturers are not required to report cosmetics-related injuries to the agency. FDA relies on companies to report injuries voluntarily (FDA 2005). Myth – Consumers can read ingredient labels and avoid products with hazardous chemicals. Fact – Federal law allows companies to leave many chemicals off labels, including nanomaterials, ingredients considered trade secrets, and components of fragrance (Houlihan 2008). Fragrance may include any of 3,163 different chemicals (IFRA 2010), none of which are required to be listed on labels. Fragrance tests reveal an average of 14 hidden compounds per formulation, including potential hormone disruptors and diethyl phthalate, a compound linked to sperm damage (EWG & CSC, 2010). Myth – Cosmetics safety is a concern for women only. Fact – Surveys show that on average, women use 12 products containing 168 ingredients every day, men use 6 products with 85 ingredients (EWG 2004), and children are exposed to an average of 61 ingredients daily (EWG 2007a). The industry-funded CIR safety panel incorrectly assumes that consumers are exposed to just one chemical at a time, and personal care products are the only source of exposure (EWG 2004). Authors: Jason Rano, Legislative Analyst, and Jane Houlihan, Senior Vice President for Research. References BCC Research. 2006. Plant-Derived Drugs: Products, Technolog, Applications. Report Code BIO022D. June 2006. http://www.bccresearch.com/report/BIO022D.html. BCC Research. 2009. Safety Botanical and Plant-Derived Drugs: Global Markets. Report Code BIO022E, February 2009. http://www.bccresearch.com/report/BIO022E.html. Calafat AM, Wong LY, Ye X, Reidy JA, Needham LL. 2008. Concentrations of the sunscreen agent benzophenone-3 in residents of the United States: National Health and Nutrition Examination Survey 2003–2004. Environ Health Perspect. 2008 Jul;116(7):893-7. Certech Registration Inc. 2008. International organic standard – Natural and natural organic cosmetic certification. IOS Cosmetics. Issue 01. April 2008. http://www.certechregistration.com/IOS_cosmetics_standard.pdf. CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review). 2009. Ingredients found unsafe for use in cosmetics (9 total, through December, 2009). http://www.cir-safety.org/findings.shtml. CSC (Campaign for Safe Cosmetics). 2007. Lead in lipstick. http://www.safecosmetics.org/article.php?id=223. CSC (The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics). 2009. No more toxic tub. http://www.safecosmetics.org/downloads/NoMoreToxicTub_Mar09Report.pdf. Duty SM, Singh NP, Silva MJ, Barr DB, Brock JW, Ryan L, et al. 2003. The Relationship between Environmental Exposures to Phthalates and DNA Damage in Human Sperm Using the Neutral Comet Assay. Environ Health Perspect 111(9): 1164-9. EWG (Environmental Working Group). 2004. Exposures Add Up – Survey Results. http://www.ewg.org/skindeep/research/exposures.php. EWG (Environmental Working Group). 2006. EWG Comments to FDA on Nano-Scale Ingredients in Cosmetics. Docket: FDA Regulated Products Containing Nanotechnology Materials. Docket number: 2006N-0107. http://www.ewg.org/node/21738. EWG (Environmental Working Group). 2007a. Safety Guide to Children’s Personal Care Products. http://www.ewg.org/skindeep/special/parentsguide/summary.php. EWG (Environmental Working Group). 2007b. Cosmetics with banned and unsafe ingredients. Table 1 – Banned in other countries. Accessed June 21, 2010. http://www.ewg.org/node/22624. EWG (Environmental Working Group). 2007c. Cosmetics With Banned and Unsafe Ingredients. Table 2 – Unsafe for use in cosmetics, according to industry. Accessed June 21, 2010. http://www.ewg.org/node/22636. EWG (Environmental Working Group). 2007d. EWG research shows 22 percent of cosmetics may be contaminated with cancer-causing impurity. http://www.ewg.org/node/21286. EWG (Environmental Working Group). 2010. EWG’s 2010 sunscreen guide. Nanomaterials and hormone disruptors in sunscreens. http://www.ewg.org/2010sunscreen/full-report/nanomaterials-and-hormone-disruptors-in-sunscreens/. EWG & CSC (Environmental Working Group and Campaign for Safe Cosmetics). 2010. Not so sexy. Hidden chemicals in perfume and cologne. http://www.safecosmetics.org/article.php?id=644 FDA (U.S. Food and Drug Administration). 1998. Clearing Up Cosmetic Confusion” by Carol Lewis. FDA Consumer magazine. May-June 1998. http://www.pueblo.gsa.gov/cic_text/health/cosmetic-confusion/398_cosm.html. FDA (U.S. Food and Drug Administration). 2000. Ingredients prohibited & restricted by FDA regulations. June 22, 1996; Updated May 30, 2000. http://www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/ProductandIngredientSafety/SelectedCosmeticIngredients/ucm127406.htm. FDA (U.S. Food and Drug Administration). 2005. FDA authority over cosmetics. http://www.cfsan.fda.gov/~dms/cos-206.html. FDA (U.S. Food and Drug Administration). 2007. Compliance Program Guidance Manual. Program 7329.001. Chapter 29 – Colors and Cosmetics Technology. http://www.fda.gov/downloads/cosmetics/GuidanceComplianceRegulatoryInformation/ComplianceEnforcement/ucm073356.pdf. FDA (U.S. Food and Drug Administration). 2010. Regulation of non-prescription products. http://www.cfsan.fda.gov/~dms/cos-206.html. Gomez E, Pillon A, Fenet H, Rosain D, Duchesne MJ, Nicolas JC, et al. 2005. Estrogenic activity of cosmetic components in reporter cell lines: parabens, UV screens, and musks. Journal of toxicology and environmental health 68(4): 239-251. Gray TJ, Gangolli SD. 1986. Aspects of the testicular toxicity of phthalate esters. Environmental health perspectives 65: 229-23. Hauser R, et al. DNA damage in human sperm is related to urinary levels of phthalate monoester and oxidative metabolites. Hum Reprod. 2007;22(3):688-95. Houlihan, J. 2008. Statement of Jane Houlihan on Cosmetics Safety: Discussion Draft of the ‘Food and Drug Administration Globalization Act’ Legislation: Device and Cosmetic Safety. Before the Subcommittee on Health of the Committee on Energy and Commerce, United State House of Representatives. May 14 2008. http://www.ewg.org/node/26545. IFRA (International Fragrance Association). 2010. Ingredients. IFRA survey: Transparency list. http://www.ifraorg.org/public/index_ps/parentid/1/childid/15/leafid/111. Schreurs RH, Legler J, Artola-Garicano E, Sinnige TL, Lanser PH, Seinen W, et al. 2004. In vitro and in vivo antiestrogenic effects of polycyclic musks in zebrafish. Environmental science & technology 38(4): 997-1002. Swan SH, Main KM, Liu F, Stewart SL, Kruse RL, Calafat AM, et al. 2005. Decrease in anogenital distance among male infants with prenatal phthalate exposure. Environ Health Perspect 113(8):1056-61. Veldhoen N, Skirrow RC, Osachoff H, Wigmore H, Clapson DJ, Gunderson MP, et al. 2006. The bactericidal agent triclosan modulates thyroid hormone-associated gene expression and disrupts postembryonic anuran development. Aquatic toxicology (Amsterdam, Netherlands) 80(3): 217-227. Wolff MS, Engel SM, Berkowitz GS, Ye X, Silva MJ, Zhu C, Wetmur J, Calafat AM. 2008. Prenatal phenol and phthalate exposures and birth outcomes. Environ Health Perspect. 2008 Aug;116(8):1092-7. |
Welcome...to dermagrace cosmetic rejuvenation blog and information center. If you're looking for dramatic and long lasting skin improvements…look no further. My goal is to provide the most authoritative skin care protocols, research and articles. Everyday I search for relevant and reliable information. I look forward to any comments or questions. Archives
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