by Corporate Educator, Daniel Clary
(Osmosis Our Medical Skin Care)
Niacinamide, one of the powerhouse ingredients seen throughout the Osmosis line, effectively increases the skin's metabolism, allowing your cells to properly communicate with each other for repair, support barrier function, and to regulate desquamation. That's right, when your skin's metabolic rate is performing at its most optimum level via Niacinamide application - cells naturally exfoliate, UV damage and oxidative stress is repaired, and your skin's first line of defense, your barrier, is intact and ready to defend your largest organ. Unfortunately, like all biological systems, our skin metabolism slows down as we age - this is the reason we begin to form fine lines and wrinkles, and we tend to pack on that weight a bit easier! The metabolic rate can slow even further by extrinsic and intrinsic factors, such as sun exposure, smoking and poor sugar rich diets. Fret not though, Niacinamide is here to the rescue.
Niacinamide is the active form of Vitamin B3 (Niacin) and is by far one of the most important components of proper cellular function, acting as a precursor in over 300 chemical and enzymatic reactions in the skin and body. It has several medicinal applications including anti-inflammation, reversal of photo immunosuppression and an increase in cellular lipid synthesis. Topically, our patented liposomal Niacinamide will increase ceramide production for improved barrier function, repair photo aged skin, regulate unwanted pigmentation, decrease sebum production, and return your cellular turnover rate to normal. Systemically, it's involvement in the energy cycle of your cells, will allow free fatty acids and glucose to be more efficiently used and burned as fuel, versus being stored as fat, all while increasing your own native energy without artificial central nervous system stimulation. A win on both ends!
Did you know that the average skincare product provides less than 5% penetration. It is important to use products that offer a high penetration rate. The fact is skincare products should have a good delivery system in place. Your products should be formulated to help rebuild, repair, remodel and preserve the epidermal layers of the skin while building collagen and strengthening elasticity. A liposome delivery system is key to product penetration.
Liposomes are microscopic spheres that are so tiny making the absorption almost perfect which solves many problems for special nutrient deficiencies within the skin. Products which are poorly absorbed or which have a normal molecular size inhibit efficient absorption providing very little nutrient value for our skin cells. Normal absorption is in the 3-5 percent range, liposomal absorption is 90 plus percent!
Does your skincare products have this system in place. I have the perfect solution. I can help you get that healthy radiant skin you have always wanted without using harsh ingredients, chemicals or causing inflammation.
Osmosis Pur Medical Skin Care
The Bees Knees of Skin Care!
About Osmosis SkincareThe Future is Here.
Osmosis Skin Care offers a collection of facial products that are safe to use on even the most sensitive skin because they are infused with nutrients that are highly efficacious and yet non-inflammatory. For decades most skincare companies have been using irritating ingredients that work by inflaming the skin. This has to change if we want to reverse aging skin. Most skincare companies also struggle to get adequate penetration (2-5% on average) and they have failed to address the lack of skin nutrition needed to feed the repair process. This has resulted in poor outcomes throughout the world.
Osmosis achieves remarkable results by addressing every aspect of skin damage; collagen/elastin production, scar tissue build-up, loss of skin nutrition and growth factors, and DNA damage. In addition, Osmosis Skincare avoids ingredients and strategies that weaken and inflame the skin. Finally, Osmosis Skincare differentiates itself by using the most advanced ingredients in the world. We are the first to offer DNA repair strategies using Zinc Finger Technology™. We are the first to offer liposomally delivered stem cell growth factors. We have over 17 patents pending for ingredients that have the unique ability to improve the skin without damaging or interfering with its proper function. Osmosis Skincare is the first company discussing increasing skin nutrition and offering multiple modalities to achieve that goal.
No skincare line in the world has a more complete approach to skin health than Osmosis Skincare.
Your results will reflect that.
1. The product should be chirally correct.
2. Non-toxic (i.e. no parabens, fragrances, etc...)
3. Formulated with a delivery system such as liposome technology that allows ingredients to penetrate into the dermis.
4. Ingredients that penetrate should be time tested (independently) to stimulate collagen production and improve the health of the skin. Beware of marketing hype that uses fancy terminology.
You may not know this...not all wrinkles are created equal. While wrinkles from sundamage and intrinsic aging can be improved, those from a process known as glycation cannot.
It is less widely known that blood sugar has an important bearing on the aging process. Unfortunately, in addition to being a vital cellular fuel, glucose is also a substance that can cause damage to cells and tissues by randomly reacting with proteins, DNA and other vital molecules.
In the process called non-enzymatic glycosylation or glycation, glucose molecules attach themselves to proteins, setting in motion a chain of chemical reactions that ends in the proteins binding together or crosslinking, thus altering their biological and structural roles. The process is slow but increases with time.
Advanced Glycosylation End products (AGEs), is the term given to Crosslinks of proteins like collagen and elastin, which seem to toughen tissues and may cause some of the deterioration associated with aging. AGEs have been linked to stiffening connective tissue (collagen), hardened arteries, clouded eyes, loss of nerve function, and less efficient kidneys. These are deficiencies that often accompany aging.
AGEs exert their harmful effects on two levels. Most obviously, they physically impair protein, DNA and lipids, altering their chemical properties. They also act as cellular signals, triggering a cascade of destructive events when they attach to their cellular binding sites.
The main binding site for AGEs is appropriately called RAGE (receptor for AGEs). The binding of AGEs to RAGE induces cellular activation and intracellular oxidative stress, AGE binding to RAGE tends to be self-amplifying, since the more AGEs bind to RAGE, the more RAGE binding sites develop. This creates a "positive feedback loop" leading to spreading waves of cellular activation and tissue damage.
One happy finding is that the body has its own defense system against crosslinking. Just as it has anti-oxidants to fight free-radical damage, it has other guardians, immune system cells called macrophages, that combat glycation.
Macrophages with special receptors for AGEs seek them out, engulf them, break them down, and eject them into the blood stream where they are filtered out by the kidneys and eliminated in urine. The only apparent drawback to this defense system is that it is not complete and levels of AGEs increase steadily with age. One reason is that kidney function tends to decline with advancing age.
Is there an answer to glycation?
Treatment is best started with prevention by diet control, reducing total calories, avoiding high sugar foods and not cooking at high temperatures. Supplements such as aminoguanidine, pyridoxamine, carnosine and benfotiamine are excellent glycation preventors.
Carnosine levels decline with age, and now that many people are cutting down on meat - the main dietary source of carnosine - supplementation becomes expecially important. Expect to see carnosine in the 'new generation' of actives of the future.
Beautymag Online, Glycosylation and the Ageing Process
Peter T. Pugliese, MD, April 14, 2008, from the April 2008 issue of Skin Inc. magazine.
As a skin care professional, you have no doubt heard these terms countless times. But what do they mean? At face value, “functional,” “performance,” and “active” sound like different ways of saying, essentially, the same thing. But in reality, these categories could not be more different.
“Active” and “Performance” Ingredients Any skin care product that intends to stimulate or enhance normal mechanisms of cellular repair includes “active” or “performance” ingredients. What is the difference? If the product is a drug or a cosmeceutical, a skin care product that features drug-like qualities, the ingredients that work to improve the skin are referred to as “active” ingredients. In the case of a skin care product that may be purchased over-the-counter, they are called “performance” ingredients. Examples of active or performance ingredients include hydroxy acids used in anti-aging and exfoliation products, tretinoin or benzoyl peroxide found in acne treatments, polysaccharides in moisturizers, hyaluronic acid for skin lightening, and antioxidants found in a wide variety of skin care products. There are hundreds of active/performance ingredients available to skin care formulators.
Of course, active or performance ingredients are not necessary in all skin care products. Take, for example, facial cleansers. While a good number of cleansers include performance ingredients like salicylic acid or antioxidants, many of them are simply designed to cleanse dirt and excess oil from the skin. In the latter example, performance ingredients are not necessary.
“Functional” Ingredients Just as the name implies, functional ingredients are those that play a role in the way a product functions. These inactive ingredients may determine the form of a product, whether a cream, serum, gel, or the like; give a product its texture and consistency; and aid the performance of active ingredients. The collection of functional ingredients in a skin care formulation is often referred to as the “vehicle” for the delivery of active or performance ingredients. Simply put, you can add the very best active or performance ingredients to a formulation, but they are worthless unless the vehicle is optimized to allow them to blend onto, or penetrate into the skin. In the functional ingredients category, there are several sub-
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) serve as another good example of an ingredient that fits into both active/performance and functional categories. Not only are AHAs used in exfoliants and anti-aging products to reduce the signs of aging while improving skin texture, they also function as humectants.
Then there are biological additives and botanicals. These substances, derived from plants and animals, are typically added to improve the aesthetics of a product, including its look, texture, and smell. However, emerging research is showing the ability of some biological additives and botanicals to positively affect skin physiology. Examples include green tea extract, grapefruit oil, and royal jelly.
Challenges Affecting Formulators You will recall that I originally referred to skin care product formulation as a “delicate balance of ingredients,” a description that is certainly appropriate given the challenges formulators encounter when creating a product. To ensure the formulation’s stability, each ingredient must be added at the appropriate time, and in the appropriate quantity. Beyond these factors, quality comes into play to ensure maximum results.
Consumers often encounter advertising that hypes the quantity of an active/performance ingredient in a formulation. In reality, however, adding too much of a good thing could cause the product to be irritating to the skin of most individuals or result in negative side effects. Conversely, products that contain insignificant quantities of an active/performance ingredient can still list that ingredient on the label. However, the product end user will, most likely, see no benefit from it.
In the case of ingredients that play the role of both active/performance and functional ingredients, such as alpha hydroxy acids, the amount of the substance added to the formulation determines the impact it will have on the skin. For example, if you add a significant amount of an AHA, the result will be exfoliation. Add small quantities and it will act more like a moisturizer.
Simply having an ingredient in a product says nothing about the quality of that ingredient. Note that product ingredients fall into one of five quality grades. In descending order of purity, they are: Pharmaceutical, food, cosmetic, reagent, and technical. Most over-the-counter cosmetics utilize cosmetic-grade ingredients, which, while still of reasonably high quality, contain allowable impurities. Pharmaceutical-grade ingredients, however, which are used in drugs and many cosmeceuticals, have the highest level of purity (99.9 percent pure) and contain higher levels of the components that encourage cellular repair.
Most active/performance ingredients are inherently unstable over time. This is why most skin care products offer an expiration date on the packaging. However, this instability may be further exacerbated by conditions such as exposure to light and improper temperatures. Therefore, most manufacturers take care to package products in containers that protect the formulation as much as possible. Some manufacturers will even go as far as directing distributors on the appropriate storage conditions of their products.
Formulations may also be compromised by chemical reactions among ingredients, which is why the order in which ingredients are added is essential. And, because some ingredients simply break down in the presence of other substances, they may be placed into a formulation via encapsulation. An example of this is antioxidants like ascorbic acid, which may often be included within tiny beads made from a plant protein, which melts when applied to the skin.
Recommending Skin Care Products toYour Clientele So then, the obvious question is - how do you help your clients determine if a skin care formulation is optimized to best meet their needs? The most useful tool in this effort is the ingredient list found on the product itself.
While the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) does not approve over-the-counter skin care products directly, they do provide some protection for consumers via the Fair Packaging and Labeling Act. This law requires manufacturers to follow specific criteria when developing product labels, including listing product ingredients in the order of concentration. Additionally, all ingredients must be listed by their INCI name, that is, the scientific term for each ingredient. For example, INCI takes a simple ingredient like shea butter and requires it be listed as Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter). While this may seemingly make labels more difficult to read, it actually ensures that labels read consistently across languages and cultures.
While the label will not help you determine the exact quantity of the active/performance ingredients present in the formulation, you can make a determination based on its rank in the ingredient list. The label will also allow you to determine if a therapeutic base is present, one that will allow active/performance ingredients to be absorbed into the skin. Most manufacturers that utilize pharmaceutical-grade ingredients will highlight this fact on the label. And finally, look for an expiration date and any storage instructions.
Despite active/performance ingredients getting all the glory, the role of functional ingredients should not be overlooked when evaluating a skin care product. After all, a truly efficacious product requires a formulation that maximizes both.
Benzalkonium chloride: Biocide, preservative and surfactant associated with severe skin, eye, and respiratory irritation and allergies, … read more benzalkonium chloride is a sensitizer especially dangerous for people with asthma or skin conditions like eczema. It is found in many household disinfectants and cleaning supplies. Regular use of products containing antimicrobials such as benzalkonium chloride could lead to development of resistant bacteria.
BHA: The National Toxicology Program classifies butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA) as “reasonably anticipated to be a human carcinogen.” … read more It can cause skin depigmentation. In animal studies, BHA produces liver damage and causes stomach cancers such as papillomas and carcinomas and interferes with normal reproductive system development and thyroid hormone levels. The European Union considers it unsafe in fragrance. It is found in food, food packaging, and personal care products sold in the U.S.
Coal tar hair dyes and other coal tar ingredients (including Aminophenol, Diaminobenzene, Phenylenediamine): Coal tar, a byproduct of coal processing, is a known human carcinogen… read more, according to the National Toxicology Program and the International Agency for Research on Cancer. Hair stylists and other professionals are exposed to these chemicals in hair dye almost daily. While FDA sanctions coal tar in specialty products such as dandruff and psoriasis shampoos, the long-term safety of these products has not been demonstrated.
DMDM hydantoin & bronopol (2-Bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol): Cosmetics preservatives that decompose and release formaldehyde… read more, which the International Agency on Research on Cancer lists as a known human carcinogen. The preservatives and their decomposition products, including formaldehyde, can trigger allergic reactions. About one-fifth of U.S. cosmetics and personal care products contain a chemical that releases formaldehyde. Not surprisingly, more Americans develop contact allergies to these ingredients than Europeans.
Formaldehyde: A potent preservative considered a known human carcinogen by the International Agency on Research on Cancer.… read more Formaldehyde, also an asthmagen, neurotoxicant and developmental toxicant, was once mixed into to many personal care products as antiseptic. This use has declined. But some hair straighteners are based on formaldehyde’s hair-stiffening action and release substantial amounts of the chemical. Many common preservatives also release formaldehyde into products (like DMDM hydantoin, quaternium, and urea compounds).
Fragrance: It may help sell products from face cream to laundry detergent, but do you know what’s in it? … read more Fragrances are in everything from shampoo to deodorant to lotion. Federal law doesn’t require companies to list on product labels any of the chemicals in their fragrance mixture. Recent research from EWG and the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics found an average of 14 chemicals in 17 name brand fragrance products, none of them listed on the label. Fragrances can contain hormone disruptors and are among the top 5 allergens in the world. Our advice? Buy fragrance free.
Hydroquinone: A skin bleaching chemical that can cause a skin disease … read more called ochronosis, with blue-black lesions that in the worst cases become permanent black caviar-size bumps. In animal studies, hydroquinone has caused tumor development. The National Toxicology Program is conducting reproductive toxicity and dermal carcinogenicity studies of this chemical.
Methylisothiazolinone and methylchloroisothiazolinone: Preservatives, commonly used together in personal care products, among the most common irritants, sensitizers and causes of contact allergy … read more Lab studies on mammalian brain cells suggest that methylisothiazolinone may be neurotoxic.
Oxybenzone: Sunscreen agent and ultraviolet light absorber, found in nearly all Americans… read more, according to the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. In human epidemiological studies, oxybenzone has been linked to irritation, sensitization and allergies. A study of 404 New York City women in the third trimester of pregnancy associated higher maternal concentration of oxybenzone with a decreased birth weight among newborn baby girls but with greater birth weight in newborn boys. Studies on cells and laboratory animals indicate that oxybenzone and its metabolites may disrupt the hormone system.
Parabens (Propyl, Isopropyl, Butyl, and Isobutylparabens): Parabens are estrogen-mimicking preservatives, read more found in breast cancer tumors of 19 of 20 women studied. The CDC has detected parabens in virtually all Americans surveyed. According to the European Commission’s Scientific Committee on Consumer Products, longer chain parabens like propyl and butyl paraben and their branched counterparts, isopropyl and isobutylparabens, may disrupt the endocrine system and cause reproductive and developmental disorders.
PEG/Ceteareth/Polyethylene compounds: These synthetic chemicals are frequently contaminated with 1,4-dioxane, which the U.S. government considers a probably human carcinogen and which readily penetrates the skin. … read more Cosmetics makers could easily remove 1,4-dioxane from ingredients, but tests documenting its common presence in products show that they often don’t.
Petroleum distillates: Petroleum-extracted cosmetics ingredients, commonly found in mascara. … read more They may cause contact dermatitis and are often contaminated with cancer-causing impurities. They are produced in oil refineries at the same time as automobile fuel, heating oil and chemical feedstocks.
Phthalates: A growing number of studies link this chemical to male reproductive system disorders. Pregnant women should avoid nail polish containing dibutyl phathalate. Everyone should avoid products with “fragrance” indicating a chemical mixture that may contain phthalates.
Resorcinol: Common ingredient in hair color and bleaching products; skin irritant, toxic to the immune system and frequent cause of hair dye allergy. … read more In animal studies, resorcinol can disrupt normal thyroid function. The federal government regulates exposures to resorcinol in the workplace, but its use is not restricted in personal care products.
Retinyl palmitate and retinol (Vitamin A): Vitamin A is an essential nutrient, but excessive amounts can cause severe birth defects if women are exposed during pregnancy… read more New evidence shows that when applied to sun-exposed skin, for instance, in sunscreens, lip products and daytime moisturizers, these compounds can break down and produce toxic free radicals that can damage DNA and cause skin cancer. Recent date from the federal Food and Drug Administration indicate that when retinyl palmitate is applied to the skin in the presence of sunlight, it speeds the development of skin tumors and lesions.
Toluene: Volatile petrochemical solvent and paint thinner and potent neurotoxicant that acts as an irritant, impairs breathing and causes nausea … read more A pregnant woman’s exposure to toluene vapors during pregnancy may impair fetal development. In human epidemiological and animal studies, toluene has been associated with toxicity to the immune system. Some evidence suggests a link to malignant lymphoma.
Triclosan & Triclocarban: Antimicrobial pesticides in liquid soap (triclosan) or soap bars (triclocarban), very toxic to the aquatic environment….read more often found as contaminants in people due to widespread use of antimicrobial cleaning products. Triclosan disrupts thyroid function and reproductive hormones. American Medical Association and the American Academy of Microbiology say that soap and water serves just as well to prevent spread of infections and reduce bacteria on the skin. Overuse may promote the development of bacterial resistance.
Antibacterials: Overuse of antibacterials can prevent them from effectively fighting disease-causing germs like E. coli and Salmonella enterica. Triclosan, widely used in soaps, toothpastes and deodorants, has been detected in breast milk, and one recent study found that it interferes with testosterone activity in cells. Numerous studies have found that washing with regular soap and warm water is just as effective at killing germs.
Diethanolamine (DEA): DEA is a possible hormone disruptor, has shown limited evidence of carcinogenicity and depletes the body of choline needed for fetal brain development. DEA can also show up as a contaminant in products containing related chemicals, such as cocamide DEA.
1,4-Dioxane: 1,4-Dioxane is a known animal carcinogen and a possible human carcinogen that can appear as a contaminant in products containing sodium laureth sulfate and ingredients that include the terms "PEG," "-xynol," "ceteareth," "oleth" and most other ethoxylated "eth" ingredients. The FDA monitors products for the contaminant but has not yet recommended an exposure limit. Manufacturers can remove dioxane through a process called vacuum stripping, but a small amount usually remains. A 2007 survey by the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics found that most children's bath products contain 10 parts per million or less, but an earlier 2001 survey by the FDA found levels in excess of 85 parts per million.
Lead and mercury: Neurotoxic lead may appear in products as a naturally occurring contaminant of hydrated silica, one of the ingredients in toothpaste, and lead acetate is found in some brands of men's hair dye. Brain-damaging mercury, found in the preservative thimerosol, is used in some mascaras.
Nanoparticles: Nanoparticles, which may penetrate the skin and damage brain cells, are appearing in an increasing number of cosmetics and sunscreens. Most problematic are zinc oxide and titanium dioxide nanoparticles, used insunscreens to make them transparent. When possible, look for sunscreens containing particles of these ingredients larger than 100 nanometers. You'll most likely need to call companies to confirm sizes, but a few manufacturers have started advertising their lack of nanoparticle-sized ingredients on labels.
P-Phenylenediamine: Commonly found in hair dyes, this chemical can damage the nervous system, cause lung irritation and cause severe allergic reactions. It's also listed as 1,4-Benzenediamine, p-Phenyldiamine and 4-Phenylenediamine.
Today, from food consumption to face and body creams, we are bombarded with claims that antioxidants fight free radical damage. You may wonder what exactly you’re fighting and how…if so, you aren’t alone. Simply put, free radicals are loose electrons. Think back to chemistry, recall that molecules are made up of atoms, which contain protons, neutrons, and electrons. Damage to cells from environmental factors such as UV radiation or lifestyle choices like smoking disrupt the molecular configuration. Antioxidants are substances that help to protect cells from free radical damage. The protection comes from their interaction with the unstable molecules which basically neutralizes them and thus preventing cell damage. Vitamins A, C and E; green tea; lycopene; lutien; promegranate; and selenium, are all found in a variety of food sources and now available in over-the-counter skin care products. Also, recently coffee berry extra, the bright red fruit of the coffee bush is much richer and has the power to naturally prevent and repair skin damage caused by free radical exposure. Spin trap is the most powerful antioxidant known, milligram per milligram. It does not destroy the free radical (rogue oxygen), rather it traps it and escorts it back to the respiratory cycle where it is utilized in tissue respiration. Please note that the best way to prevent signs of aging is to protect yourself from sun damage.
to dermagrace cosmetic rejuvenation blog and information center. If you're looking for dramatic and long lasting skin improvements…look no further. My goal is to provide the most authoritative skin care protocols, research and articles. Everyday I search for relevant and reliable information. I look forward to any comments or questions.